Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in 30 seconds
About 1,500 inhabitants (1,479 in 2023), in the province of Lower Navarre (Nafarroa Beherea). The town sits astride the Nive, at the foot of the Pyrenees, 8 km from the Spanish border and about 75 km from Pamplona (Iruñea) by road.
A legendary stopover on the Camino de Santiago (the Way of St James) — the starting point of the Camino Francés on the French side. This is where you set off on the famous ‘stage of all stages’: the crossing of the Pyrenees to Roncesvalles.
A little history
Founded in the 12th century by the kings of Navarre, after the original town (at Saint-Jean-le-Vieux) was destroyed in 1177 by the troops of Richard the Lionheart. It became the capital of Lower Navarre; since the 12th century it has been an essential stop for pilgrims.
1512: Ferdinand the Catholic seizes the town during the conquest of Navarre. Charles V eventually abandons it (around 1530), and Lower Navarre remains in the hands of the kings of Navarre of the House of Albret.
1620: under Louis XIII, Lower Navarre is united with the Crown of France.
Around 1625–1627: the citadel is built; it is remodelled by Vauban from 1685.
Today: the Camino de Santiago keeps the town going — more than 32,000 pilgrims set off from here for Santiago de Compostela in 2024, 91% on foot and 7% by bike.
What to see
Rue de la Citadelle
The main street, cobbled and sloping, lined with old houses. It runs down from the Porte Saint-Jacques to Notre-Dame church and the Nive.
Porte Saint-Jacques
The pilgrims’ legendary gateway. Added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1998 as part of the ‘Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France’. Pilgrims came into the town through this gate before crossing the Pyrenees.
The citadel
Perched on Mendiguren hill, 80 metres above the town, it was built around 1625–1627 and remodelled by Vauban from 1685. A protected historic monument (monument historique). Views over the Nive valley, the Irouléguy vineyards and the first Pyrenean peaks. Guided tours in July–August, to be booked at the tourist office.
Notre-Dame bridge
A bridge over the Nive, at the foot of Notre-Dame church. A lovely view of the houses reflected in the water. A little further on, the Eyheraberry bridge, known as the ‘Roman’ bridge, also spans the Nive.
Notre-Dame-du-Bout-du-Pont church
A Gothic church in red stone, described by the tourist office as the second Gothic building in the French Basque Country (Iparralde), after Bayonne Cathedral. Its foundation is attributed to King Sancho VII the Strong.
The ramparts
The ramparts of the upper town date from the 13th century.
The Bishops’ Prison (Prison des Évêques)
Listed as a historic monument since 1941. The building has a twofold history: the presence of the bishops of the diocese of Bayonne during the Western Schism, then its use as a place of detention from the late 18th century. Today it houses a Micro-Folie (digital museum), free to enter, and three permanent exhibitions: Basque pelota, the Basque diaspora and the old cemetery.
The pilgrims’ welcome office
Run by the Friends of the Way of St James association (Amis du Chemin de Saint-Jacques), at 39 rue de la Citadelle. This is where you pick up your pilgrim passport (credencial) and get help and information before setting off.
Markets and festivals
- Market: on Mondays all year round, and on Thursday mornings from June to September. On Monday afternoons, bare-handed pelota (pelote à main nue) matches at the Garat trinquet.
- Libertimendia (carnival): in February.
- Town festival: the week of 15 August.
- Citadelle en scène: a three-day theatre festival in late August.
The Camino de Santiago from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port
The legendary stage — Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port → Roncesvalles
24.2 km. 1,351 m of ascent (532 m of descent). About 7 hrs 50 mins’ walking. A tough stage, waymarked in red and white (GR long-distance path), which crosses the Pyrenees via the Napoleon Route.
Two routes
- Napoleon Route: along the ridges. Closed on the Spanish side from 1 November to 31 March, for safety reasons.
- Valcarlos route (the alternative): lower, through the valley, compulsory in winter.
Essential preparation
- Book your accommodation in Roncesvalles in advance
- Set off early in the morning
- Carry enough water
- Walking poles are useful for the descent
- Check the weather forecast the day before
Where to eat
Les Pyrénées
The Arrambide family’s fine-dining restaurant. It held two Michelin stars under Firmin Arrambide, then one under his son Philippe for many years, and was rated 15/20 by Gault&Millau. The restaurant has now closed, as the Arrambide family announces on its website: only the hotel and a bar remain open.
- Official website: hotel-les-pyrenees.com
Getting there
- Car: from Bayonne (Baiona) through the Nive valley, or on the N-135 from Pamplona (Iruñea) via Roncesvalles (Orreaga) and the Ibañeta pass
- Train: TER Nouvelle-Aquitaine regional trains, on the Bayonne–Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port line, which ends here
- Plane: the nearest airport is Biarritz
Once you arrive: the old town is best explored on foot.
Ready-made itineraries
1-night stay (before the Camino)
- Arrive in the afternoon: check in
- Then: ramparts + citadel
- Late afternoon: pilgrims’ welcome office, pilgrim passport, information on the next day’s stage
- Evening: dinner and an early night
- Next day: early start
Sightseeing weekend (2 days)
Day 1: Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (morning) + Aldudes valley (afternoon)
Day 2: Saint-Étienne-de-Baïgorry (Irouléguy vineyards) + back to Bayonne
3 days
Add the Irati forest, which straddles the border.
Frequently asked questions
Do you have to walk the Camino to visit Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port?
No, the town is well worth a visit without walking the Way. It makes an ideal stop on a road trip around the Basque Country.
Can you set off on the Camino without being a registered pilgrim?
Yes. The pilgrim passport (credencial) is mainly useful for staying in pilgrim hostels. It is issued at the pilgrims’ welcome office, rue de la Citadelle.
What’s the minimum kit for stage 1?
Broken-in walking boots, poles, a waterproof jacket, enough water, sun protection, snacks and a head torch (for a dawn start). Keep your pack as light as possible.
Is Basque spoken in Lower Navarre?
Yes, Basque (euskara) is still very much part of everyday life there.
Notable people and historical figures linked to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port
- Bernat Etxepare (late 15th–mid-16th century) — author of the first book printed in Basque.
- Sancho VII the Strong — King of Navarre, to whom the church of Notre-Dame-du-Bout-du-Pont is attributed.
- Louis XIII — it was during his reign (1620) that Lower Navarre was united with the Crown of France.
- Juan Huarte de San Juan (c. 1530–1592) — physician and pioneer of psychology, born in the town.
My favourite photo
Notre-Dame bridge in the early morning, when the mist rises off the Nive, the houses are reflected in the water and the first pilgrims cross with scallop shells hanging from their packs. Or the Porte Saint-Jacques at dawn in summer, when the pilgrims stand silhouetted against the sky — a moving moment of departure.
Sources
- Pays Basque tourist office — Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, Porte Saint-Jacques, Citadel, From Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles
- Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port town hall — Visit (in French)
- Les Pyrénées — La Table (announcement by the Arrambide family)
- Wikipedia: Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (French), Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (English) (2023 population, 2024 pilgrim numbers), Lower Navarre
Bidaia on — Buen Camino.