Saint-Palais in 30 seconds
About 2,200 inhabitants (2,204 in 2023, Insee), on the Bidouze, capital of the Pays de Mixe in Lower Navarre (Nafarroa Beherea). Basque name: Donapaleu; the town is named after St Pelagius (San Pelayo), a Christian martyr executed in Córdoba in 926. It has been twinned with Sangüesa, in Navarre, since 4 April 1993.
A little history
12th century: first mention of the settlement, a crossroads of the routes to Santiago de Compostela.
13th century: founded as a ‘new town’ (iriberri) by the kings of Navarre, around what is now Rue du Palais-de-Justice.
1351: King Charles II of Navarre authorises Saint-Palais to mint coins, a privilege it keeps for several centuries; the Hôtel de la Monnaie (the old mint) remains the finest building of the period.
1472: Jean d’Albret establishes the town’s markets.
After 1512: with Pamplona in the hands of Castile, Saint-Palais becomes the political and administrative centre of Navarre; the Estates General and the chancery move here in 1523. This role lasts until the union of Navarre with France under Henry IV, in 1589.
During the Revolution, the town is briefly renamed Mont-Bidouze, after its river.
What to see
The Gibraltar stele
4 km from Saint-Palais, this disc-shaped stele (stèle discoïdale) marks the junction of three major Camino de Santiago routes (the Way of St James): those from Tours, Vézelay and Le Puy-en-Velay.
The Lower Navarre Museum
It traces the history of Lower Navarre and Saint-Palais: prehistory, the Roman presence, the pilgrim routes to Santiago.
The House of Heads (Maison des Têtes)
Its façade bears medallions of the last kings of Navarre from the House of Albret.
The Saint-Jayme trinquet
On Place du Foirail, this trinquet (indoor pelota court) is a listed historic monument (monument historique).
Sainte-Marie-Madeleine church
A 19th-century Neo-Gothic church, home to a Cavaillé-Coll organ.
The markets
The Friday morning market carries on a tradition dating back to 1472. According to Wikipedia, there are also lamb sales on Wednesdays in winter and a horse fair on Easter Monday.
The Basque strength festival (August)
Every year in the week of 15 August, since 1951: the Basque strength games (herri kirolak).
Other events
- Libertimendia (carnival): in February
- Town festival: in July, for the feast of St Mary Magdalene
- Capucinade: early November
Local specialities
- Ossau-Iraty PDO (AOP) cheese
- Kintoa PDO pork
- Irouléguy wine
- Gâteau basque (Basque cake)
Getting there
- Car: exit 4 on the A64 motorway
- Coach: services to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, Bayonne, Dax and Orthez
1-day itinerary
- Morning: the Lower Navarre Museum, then Sainte-Marie-Madeleine church (market on Fridays)
- Afternoon: the Gibraltar stele
Famous people linked to Saint-Palais
- Anne Etchegoyen (born 1980 in Saint-Palais) — a singer who performs in Basque, French, Spanish and Gascon; her album Les Voix basques (2013), recorded with the Aizkoa choir, went gold in France.
My favourite photo
The Gibraltar stele at sunset, where the Camino routes meet. Or the Basque strength festival in August — taut rope, straining muscles, a cheering crowd.
Sources
- Insee — local area comparison tool, Saint-Palais (in French) (2023 population)
- Town of Saint-Palais — History (in French)
- Pays Basque tourist office — Saint-Palais
- Saint-Palais — Wikipedia (in French) (consulted via its fr-academic copy)
- Wikipedia (in French): Anne Etchegoyen
Ongi jin Donapaleura — Welcome to Saint-Palais.