Balmaseda in 30 seconds
About 7,600 inhabitants (7,633 in 2024, INE) over 22.3 km², in the west of Biscay (Bizkaia), 33 km from Bilbao. It lies in the historical area of Enkarterri (Las Encartaciones). A chartered town founded in 1199 — the first chartered town (villa) founded in the territory of Biscay.
A little history
1199: the town is founded on 24 January by Lope Sánchez de Mena, who grants it the fuero (town charter) of Logroño. It is the first chartered town founded in the whole historical territory of Biscay.
1892: local entrepreneur Marcos Arena Bermejillo founds the ‘La Encartada’ beret factory. It runs until 1992 and then becomes a museum.
Late 19th–early 20th century: the La Robla railway arrives; its railwaymen are behind the putxera (see below).
Must-sees
The Old Bridge (Puente Viejo or La Muza bridge)
A medieval bridge of Romanesque origin (13th century) over the River Cadagua, topped by a defensive tower that also served as a toll post for merchants and pilgrims. The symbol of the town.
The classic photo: from the riverbank, with the houses of the old town in the background. Best time: low morning light or sunset.
San Severino church
A Gothic church (14th–15th centuries), with 18th-century Baroque alterations to the exterior.
Other monuments
The Gothic church of San Juan, on the left bank of the Cadagua, the convent of Santa Clara and the Urrutia and Horcasitas palaces.
The old town (Casco Antiguo)
Cobbled streets and old houses, best explored on foot.
The Holy Week Living Passion
A full-scale re-enactment of the Passion of Christ in the streets and squares of the town, on the evening of Maundy Thursday and on Good Friday.
- More than 600 residents take part
- Scenes: the Last Supper, the prayer in the Garden of Gethsemane, the trial of Jesus, the meeting with the Virgin, and the Crucifixion on Good Friday
How to see it: check the ticketing arrangements in advance. Arrive early for the key scenes. Bring warm clothes.
La Encartada Museum (beret factory)
A former woollen knitwear factory dating from 1892, specialising in berets (txapela), closed in 1992 and then turned into a museum, less than two kilometres from the historic centre. It still has its original machinery and buildings. Closed on Mondays.
Mount Kolitza
An 879 m summit and a popular hiking destination.
Enkarterri — the surrounding area
- Sopuerta — Museum of Las Encartaciones
- Karrantza — Pozalagua cave
Local specialities
- Putxera — a bean stew (alubias) cooked the way the railwaymen of the La Robla line made it. A putxera competition is held on 23 October, for the feast of San Severino.
Getting there
- Car: from Bilbao
- Train: rail line from Bilbao (timetables on the Renfe website)
Ideal 1-day itinerary
- Morning: Casco Antiguo, Old Bridge + San Severino church
- Midday: La Encartada Museum (beret factory)
- Afternoon: a stroll along the Cadagua
- Evening: back to Bilbao or stay the night
Frequently asked questions
Is Balmaseda worth the trip from Bilbao?
Yes, for a different kind of outing, as a half-day or full-day trip.
When is the Living Passion?
On the evening of Maundy Thursday and on Good Friday (in 2026: 2 and 3 April).
Are there annual festivals?
Yes, including:
- The Living Passion (Holy Week)
- San Severino festivities (23 October), with the putxera competition
- Medieval market: two days in May, held since 1999 — more than 200 stalls and more than 400 residents in period costume
My favourite photo
The Old Bridge at dawn — light mist over the River Cadagua, the medieval arches in silhouette, the houses of the casco antiguo waking up. Or the Living Passion — the costumed scenes in the streets of the old town.
Sources
- Turismo Balmaseda — Medieval market
- Turismo Euskadi (Basque Government) — Balmaseda (in Spanish)
- Turismo Balmaseda — La Encartada
- Balmaseda — Wikipedia (in Spanish) (INE 2024 population)
Ongi etorri Balmasedara — Welcome to Balmaseda.