San Sebastián in 30 seconds
About 189,000 inhabitants (189,093 in 2024, INE), capital of the province of Gipuzkoa. Some twenty kilometres from the French border.
Founded around 1180 by King Sancho VI of Navarre. From 1885, under the regent Maria Christina, it became the summer retreat of the Spanish court. The city is called Donostia in Basque, and is also nicknamed La Bella Easo.
San Sebastián airport (EAS) is in Hondarribia; Biarritz airport (BIQ) is an alternative on the French side.
A little history
Around 1180: founded as a seaport by Sancho VI of Navarre.
1728–1785: the Royal Guipuzcoan Company of Caracas, based in San Sebastián, holds the monopoly on trade between Spain and Venezuela.
1813: after the assault of 31 August, the city is sacked and burned by British and Portuguese troops. Only thirty-five houses on what is now Calle 31 de Agosto (31 August Street), which leads to the Basilica of Santa María, escape the flames. The city is then rebuilt.
1885: after the death of Alfonso XII, his widow, the regent Maria Christina, moves the court to San Sebastián every summer; the Miramar Palace is built for her in 1893.
1863: the city walls are demolished, clearing the way for urban expansion (the Cortázar ensanche, or new town).
1953: the first Zinemaldia (San Sebastián International Film Festival), in September.
Late 20th century: San Sebastián establishes itself as a leading food destination. Today the municipality has two three-Michelin-star restaurants (Arzak, Akelarre), with a third in Lasarte-Oria (Martín Berasategui).
2016: San Sebastián is European Capital of Culture (alongside Wrocław).
La Concha
About 1.35 km of crescent-shaped sand between Monte Urgull (to the east) and Monte Igueldo (to the west). Santa Clara Island sits out in the bay.
A famous white railing runs along the promenade. Around the bay:
- Ondarreta beach (the western extension)
- The Comb of the Wind (Peine del Viento, Haizearen orrazia) — three steel sculptures by Eduardo Chillida (1976), weighing 10 tonnes each, at the far end of Ondarreta beach, in a setting designed by the architect Luis Peña Ganchegui: when the sea is rough, vents in the ground blast out air and water driven by the waves.
- La Concha itself
- Zurriola beach, in the Gros district (a surf spot)
The Old Town (Parte Vieja) — pintxo central
The historic heart, rebuilt after 1813, around Plaza de la Constitución (Constitution Square). Narrow streets: Fermín Calbetón, Portu, San Juan, 31 de Agosto.
This is where you do the classic pintxo crawl.
The great Michelin-starred restaurants (Michelin Guide, tourist office list)
- Arzak (Juan Mari Arzak and his daughter Elena) — three stars since 1989
- Akelarre — three stars, with a hotel and spa since 2017
- Martín Berasategui (Lasarte-Oria, 7 km from Donostia) — three stars
- Mugaritz (Andoni Luis Aduriz, Errenteria) — two stars
- Amelia (Hotel María Cristina) — two stars
- One star: Kokotxa (Parte Vieja), Ibai
- Green star (sustainable gastronomy): Zelai Txiki
The hills of San Sebastián
Monte Urgull
At the far end of the Old Town. Mota Castle at the top, a statue of Christ and panoramic views. The San Telmo Museum sits on its slopes.
Monte Igueldo
On the west side of the bay. Funicular opened on 25 August 1912, at the same time as the amusement park on the summit. Panoramic views over La Concha.
Monte Ulía
On the east side of the city. Wilder and quieter, criss-crossed by hiking trails.
More to see
Kursaal
Conference centre designed by Rafael Moneo, opened in 1999 beside Zurriola beach: two glass volumes. The main venue of the Zinemaldia in September.
Miramar Palace
Built in 1893 by José Goicoa, from plans by the architect Ralph Selden Wornum, for the regent Maria Christina; the former summer residence of the royal family, bought by the city from Juan de Borbón in 1972. It hosts the summer courses of the University of the Basque Country. The palace and its gardens, overlooking the bay, are open to the public at certain times.
Basilica of Santa María
A Baroque basilica completed in 1774 (rebuilding began in 1743, after a gunpowder store exploded in 1688), in the heart of the Old Town, with a doorway showing Rococo touches. It escaped the fire of 1813.
San Telmo Museum
A municipal museum founded in 1902 and devoted to Basque society, housed in a former Dominican convent built between 1544 and 1562 at the foot of Monte Urgull; it was extended between 2007 and 2010.
Getting there
- By air: San Sebastián airport (EAS, in Hondarribia) or Biarritz (BIQ)
- By train: Renfe lines; from France, change at Hendaye for the Euskotren
- By car: AP-8 motorway from the border or from Bilbao
Ready-made itineraries
1 day
- Morning: stroll along La Concha, then up Monte Igueldo (funicular) → panoramic views
- Lunchtime: pintxo crawl in the Old Town
- Afternoon: San Telmo Museum, then Monte Urgull
2 days
Day 2: the Comb of the Wind + Ondarreta (morning) + Gros and Zurriola (afternoon surfing) + the Kursaal (evening)
3 days
Day 3: day trip to Getaria (home town of Balenciaga and Elcano) + Zumaia (geological flysch) + Hondarribia (fortified border town).
Frequently asked questions
When is the Zinemaldia (film festival)?
In September (the 74th edition runs 18–26 September 2026). Book your accommodation well in advance. See the festival page.
Can you visit San Sebastián as a day trip from Biarritz?
Yes, by car on the motorway, or by train to Hendaye and then the Euskotren.
Sport in San Sebastián
Real Sociedad
Founded in 1909, La Real (nicknamed txuri-urdinak, ‘the white and blues’) were Spanish league champions in 1981 and 1982 and won the Copa del Rey (King’s Cup) in 1909, 1987 and 2020. They play at Anoeta (Reale Arena), a stadium holding about 40,000, and reached the semi-finals of the European Cup in 1983.
Real Sociedad Women
Founded in 2004, the women’s team won the Copa de la Reina (Queen’s Cup) in 2019 (2–1 against Atlético de Madrid, with goals from Kiana Palacios and Nahikari García). They play at Zubieta (2,500 seats) and sometimes at Anoeta, where more than 21,500 spectators watched a league match in 2018.
Famous people linked to San Sebastián
- Eduardo Chillida (1924–2002) — sculptor, born and died in San Sebastián. Creator of the Peine del Viento (Comb of the Wind), at the far end of Ondarreta beach.
- Cristina Iglesias (born 1956 in Donostia) — sculptor, winner of Spain’s National Award for Plastic Arts (1999).
- Julio Medem (born 1958 in Donostia) — film-maker (Los amantes del Círculo Polar [Lovers of the Arctic Circle], Lucía y el sexo [Sex and Lucía]).
- Juan Mari Arzak (born 1942 in Donostia) — chef; his restaurant Arzak has held three Michelin stars since 1989.
- Andoni Luis Aduriz (born 1971 in Donostia) — chef at Mugaritz (Errenteria).
- Mikel Arteta — footballer born in San Sebastián, whose clubs included FC Barcelona, PSG, Rangers, Real Sociedad, Everton and Arsenal; assistant to Pep Guardiola at Manchester City (2016–2019), he was appointed Arsenal manager in December 2019 and won the FA Cup in 2020.
- Xabi Alonso (born 1981 in Tolosa) — grew up in San Sebastián; played for Real Sociedad, Liverpool, Real Madrid and Bayern Munich, then went into coaching (unbeaten German champions with Bayer Leverkusen in 2024).
- Bárbara Goenaga (born 1983 in San Sebastián) — actress, daughter of the painter Juan Luis Goenaga; Los cronocrímenes (Timecrimes), Oviedo Express (nominated for the Goya for Best New Actress), the series Amar es para siempre; best actress award at the 2015 Tirana film festival for Pikadero.
- Mikel Laboa (1934–2008) — singer, born and died in San Sebastián, co-founder of the Ez Dok Amairu collective and a leading figure of the new Basque song movement under Franco; his song Txoria txori was covered by Joan Baez.
- La Oreja de Van Gogh — pop band formed in San Sebastián in 1996, with Amaia Montero (1996–2007) and then Leire Martínez (2008–2024) on vocals; more than 3 million certified album sales in Spain and a Latin Grammy for Guapa.
What’s on
- Zinemaldia, the International Film Festival (September)
- Tamborrada (20 January)
- Carnival and the Caldereros (January–February)
- Semana Grande (August)
- La Concha regattas (September)
- Santo Tomás Fair (21 December)
- Olentzero and Mari Domingi (24 December)
My favourite photo
La Concha at first light, seen from the Comb of the Wind, as the mist lifts off the bay and the first surfers paddle out. Or the Old Town in the evening, when it’s pintxo time.
Sources
- San Sebastián Turismo — Michelin-starred restaurants
- Kulturklik (Basque Government) — San Sebastián Festival 2026 (in Spanish); Donostia Kultura — 74th Festival (in Spanish)
- Wikipedia (es): San Sebastián (INE 2024 population), Peine del Viento, Funicular de Igueldo, Palacio de Miramar, Basílica de Santa María del Coro, Museo San Telmo
- Wikipedia (fr): Real Sociedad, Mikel Arteta; Wikipedia (es): Real Sociedad Women
- Wikipedia (es), people: Eduardo Chillida, Cristina Iglesias, Julio Medem, Juan Mari Arzak, Andoni Luis Aduriz, Xabi Alonso
- Wikipedia (es): Bárbara Goenaga
- Wikipedia (es): Mikel Laboa, La Oreja de Van Gogh
Ongi etorri Donostiara — Welcome to San Sebastián.